OAMC Spring 2022 Men’s Clothing Collection

Luke Meier turned to Dieter Rams’ restricted design practice for his OAMC spring collection, approaching the design process with a “product design mindset,” as he explained during a Zoom call from Milan. Meier cited Ram’s


Luke Meier turned to Dieter Rams’ restricted design practice for his OAMC spring collection, approaching the design process with a “product design mindset,” as he explained during a Zoom call from Milan. Meier cited Ram’s philosophy in press notes: “Good design is as little as possible. Less, but better, because it focuses on the essentials, and the products are not cluttered with the non-essentials. Back to purity, back to simplicity.

Ram’s hypothesis seems particularly relevant in today’s world; nor is he very far from Meier’s sensibility. Economy of gesture and elegant subtraction are an integral part of his lexicon. This season he has immersed himself in “questioning the purpose of what we do and how we do it and why”, through a thoughtful exploration of responsible practices. For Meier, this means creating high quality “products” with longevity, integrity and, of course, beautiful design.

Extensive research into sustainably produced fabrics has given the collection a solid foundation, basing its sleek modular shapes in fine materials and supporting the voluminous proportions of its elegant functional fit. Recycled wools and felts, compact Japanese cottons, double-sided bonded viscose, all feature prominently in the offer, as well as a textured polyester made in Italy by a company that treats leftovers collected just 10 kilometers from its home. factory. Adding a soft touch to the otherwise ergonomic and industrial feel, a 3-ply recycled nylon has been printed with painterly watercolor effects, reproducing an abstract constellation of nebulous clouds, “like looking at some sort of sky map from dream, ”Meier said.

“Obviously, it’s very current, all this talk about sustainability and upcycling,” Meier explained. “But the underlying idea is that the resources we have are not endless; we don’t have an infinite amount and a flow of everything. Digging deeper into the idea of ​​trying to make pre-existing things interesting again, he started working on OAMC Re: Work, a kind of craft project on re-using existing surplus military clothing and blankets that he overdined and modified, then integrated into the hardware or fabric panels to compose new silhouettes. The quilted lining of an American M-65 country jacket has been transformed into a slim two-tone elongated jacket or a pretty, light orange overcoat.

Finding beauty in waste is a conceptual and visual exercise that Meier finds fascinating. Images of humble crushed soda cans were rendered in black and white silk print graphics on a round fit shirt / jacket. “It’s not just a necessity, I also think it’s something professionally creative,” he said. Artists have always given the best of themselves in the face of limitations. “I always feel like you have to give yourself a bit of a limit, make things interesting by staying within a certain perimeter,” Meier confirmed. “Every season I always refer to the performative work of Matthew Barney – there really must be some sort of weird Cremaster thing happening on the globe now, really. His series Drawing constraint Particularly poignant today is this effort to overcome self-created obstacles in order to achieve something further, more powerful. We don’t have unlimited resources. But we can certainly have unlimited reserves of creativity.